Muriel
and I wanted to really, truly unplug from our lives and hence decided
to do the John Muir Trail -
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Muir_Trail
(at least 165 miles of the 212 total) in the Eastern Sierra
mountains. Our section started in Mammoth Lakes, Ca and went south
until Mt Whitney, which is the highest mountain in the continental
United States. The trail is almost entirely above 8,000 feet and
traversed 5 passes that are just about 12,000 feet.
Considered
by many to be the premier hiking trail in the continental United
States, the JMT hugs the Sierra Crest and alternates between
high-altitude forest and above-timberline terrain. Eleven of
California's thirteen 14,000-foot peaks are located on or near the
trail, which crosses or passes near the headwaters of a more than a
dozen major Sierra Nevada rivers.
The
trip was amazing, we did the 165 miles in 10 full days of hiking and
this was the hardest sustained physical challenge of my life. We
worked so hard to get in the miles needed for our plans and say some
of the most beautiful high mountains. We were blown away by the raw
power and beauty of this country and blessed to be able to move fast
and nimbly throughout. I think we ascended about 35,000 feet of
elevation and descended about the same.
We
are going to do a couple of posts, this one summarizing the trip and
another with the best of pictures. The below is based off notes Mu
took along the road.
Day
1
We
got on the trail in Mammoth, from the Mammoth Pass trailhead. Since
we left a wedding that morning north of Reno, it was quite a haul to
get down to the trailhead. As a result, we got on the trail around 4
and hiked for a few hours before pulling into our first campsite of
the trail around 7. It felt great to finally be on the trail, with
the multitude of planning becoming a reality. Honestly, the act of
getting on the trial trumpet the beauty this afternoon.
Day
2
Deer
Creek to Squaw Lake
The
continuous physicality of the trail becomes a reality pretty quick,
with the 50+ pound backpack and such. Today was highlighted with a
really pretty sunset at squaw lake, looking out across a large river
basin. Overall: we we're super pooped from the first full day on
the trail.
Day
3
Squaw
Lake to Bear Creek
We
went over a large pass (silver pass) first thing in the morning and
were pleased that to get that completed and under our belt. In fact,
the real challenge of the day was a different assent, about 2k of
switchbacks in the forest and high country. Night fall found us at a
lovely campsite, right by the river with delicious water and perfect
light.
Day
4
Bear
Creek to San Joaquim (aka the mud springs)
Today
was our re-supply from the muir trail ranch, meaning we have covered
50 miles of our trek. The ranch is way in the back country, and very
thankfully offers a service to backpackers with re-supply. There is
also a mud springs bath, which we really appreciated to rejuvenate
the muscles, especially the legs. Of course, we thought it was a
rest day and hiked about 12 miles. Some rest day.
Day
5
San
Joaquim to Darwin Creek
Another
amazing campsite brought the end of a day moving steadily up first
tributary of the Kings river. We crossed into Kings canyon National
park in the morning and started the traverses over the high mountain
passes and descents down into the river valleys. The campsite was
Mu's favorite, as we had stunning vistas of evolution valley and
privacy. Overall, today felt more mellow because we our packs were
heavy from the re-supply and wanted to built our energy reserves for
the next several days. Our intention is to hike around 80 miles over
the next 4 days, traversing 5 really tall passes and through some of
the biggest and baddest mountains in the US.
Day
6
Darwin
Creek to Deer Meadows (21.5 miles)
We
went over our first big, big pass, named for John Muir. This country
was spectacular, jagged and rugged with many miles above treeline.
Thankfully, the rain held off until we had gotten back into the cover
of trees and did not let up for hours. We kept hiking, finding it
better to be hiking as opposed to setting up camp while it is raining
and getting everything wet. By the end of the day, we had hiked for
over 12 hours, and were exhausted. Camp was right by a Kings creek,
and was made right as night fall came. I slept like a baby, but it
took awhile to get to sleep as my mind was churning about the
exertion of the day and the plans for the upcoming days. Part of me
wanted to get up in the middle of the night and keep the movement
going.
Day
7
Deer
Meadow to Sawmill Junction (21.5 miles)
Today
we charged, going over two passes about 12k high with a little late
start due to my jury rigging of new shoelaces when mine broke. The
first pass, called Mather and named for the first supervisor of the
national park system, was rugged. We were in the company of 6 or so
mountains that top out over 14k. Our 2nd
pass, Pinchot, was completed after a drizzly day and topped by a
superhuman push from Mu that covered over 2 miles and the last 1200
feet of the pass in an hour. I could not keep up, but sure tried.
This pass was different from the rest, as the mountains are
metamorphic rock as opposed to the glacial granite that has been our
world for the last 100 miles.
Day
8
Sawmill
Junction to Bubbs Creek (16.5 miles)
This
pass, called Glen, seemed like it would be easier but ended up being
the hardest. Wr moved a bit slower than would be ideal and hence had
a storm beating down on us as we summited the pass. The lakes on the
north of the pass, called Rae Lakes, were really pretty but my mind
was focused on the weather to be sure and keep us safe.
Day
9
Bubb's
Creek to High Sierra Junction (17.5 miles)
Today
was dominated by passage over Forrester Pass, which tops out at
13,200 feet. The pass was actually sort of easy, despite the
altitude, as the trail was pretty even all the way to the top. This
highlights the overall quality of the trail, which is in amazing
shape from north to south, surely the best maintained trail in
America. It was a great pass, as the summit comes and an amazing
vista across Sequoia national park, with a bunch of lakes and several
jagged mountain ridges. The alpine country is really stunning, and
this is after days upon days of stunning, rugged country.
Day
10
High
sierra junction to Alpine lake
A
rest day for us, with time to dry out our stuff and enjoy the high
country. We didn't even break camp until after 1 and it felt
glorious. The hiking part of the day took us up to the high alpine
basin of Mt Whitney, with an amazing sunset across alpine lakes and
big ridges.
Day
11
Alpine
lake to Whitney Portal
Today
was the last day of our trip, with a last 3k climb up to the top of
america. Mt whitney is 14,500 feet and it actually felt surprisingly
easy after all of our acclimatization. Mu led us to the top of the
mountain, charging up the hill. We ended up on top of Whitney around
8:30 and had a blissful fifteen minutes of peace and solitude before
others came up to the summit area. I felt so peaceful, strong and
happy to be at the top of the mt, looking out to the north across the
many passes and high country that we had traversed over the the last
several days. The sense of purpose included simplicity of purpose
and shared accomplishment with Mu. It was also a HUGE relief to have
her (and both of us) make it through the hike safely, considering her
nasty ski accident only 15 weeks ago. We had 10 miles to go to the
trailhead, and then hitching it up to Mammoth but it all felt great,
doable and with a deep sense of simple, straightforward purpose.
More pics
to come