After taking a night bus from Myanmar's economic capital, Yangon, we arrived to Bagan in the dark. 5 am dark. We stumbled out of the bus into a tea cafe that is typical of Myanmar --outdoors, free oolong tea always available and child size plastic furniture -- brightly colored stools surrounding a one foot tall table. We ordered sweet tea to drink before the oolong tea and waited for the sun to arrive. As we waited, we could hear the singing and preaching of a nearby Buddhist pagoda.
80-90% of Myanmar's population are Theravada Buddhists. Buddhism is a religion that I have always admired because of its realism and its hope. I often refer to Buddhism's realism -- its first noble truth that "Life is Suffering." I find this noble truth comforting because it reminds me to be grateful for the many moments that are not suffering. I also admire Buddhism's focus on creating a "skilled mind" --that if your mind is skillful then you have the power to avoid cause suffering or remorse. A life to aspire to.
But in Myanmar, I have read and seen aspects of how this state-sponsored religion has been harmful. For example, riots have erupted in Myanmar within the last year that have displaced 150,000 Muslims. In fact, in one day 70 Burmese Muslims were murdered after government officials took away the sticks that they were trying to defend themselves with. The victims of this massacre and much of the violence is directed at an ethnic minority called the Rohynga. The Rohynga have been systematically discriminated against, including a 1982 law that denies them Myanmar citizenship unless they can prove that their family lived in Myanmar prior to its independence in 1948. Another aspect of this state-sponsored religion that is troubling is the misogyny. The misogyny feels less prevalent than in the other major world religions but I am still bothered when I see signs like the below:
Apparently, there are different schools of thought in Buddhism about women's role. Some people believe that being a woman is equivalent to being an elephant or some other noble beast and that you have to be reincarnated as a man before you can be enlightened. Others believe that women can attain enlightenment in their current state. I'll take the latter.
I don't think that Buddhism is the direct cause of the terrible violence or the misogyny but it is really sad to see the affiliation between them. Especially because Bagan is such a special place. Bagan has more than 3000 temples, pagodas, and other Buddhist religious places within a 10 or 20 mile radius. These religious places are living, old, and impressive. People still worship at them. They were built centuries, and in some cases a millennia, ago. And they are filled with huge buddhas and intricate painting and sculpture. The stature of the buildings themselves is impressive and looking out on their different forms and colors while the sun is setting is a mesmeric experience.
The temples, pagodas, and holy places remind the visitor of the long-suffering, enlightenment, and teachings of the Buddha. I particularly respect the five precepts of the moral code of Buddhism: "not to take the life of anything living, not to take anything not freely given, to abstain from sexual misconduct and sensual overindulgence, to refrain from untrue speech, and to avoid intoxication, that is, losing mindfulness". The moral code is not absolutist like the 10 commandments of Christianity-- instead, it is a guide that directs people to live their best lives.
There is much to esteem about Buddhism and that makes it only sadder to reflect on how, like other major religions -- especially state sponsored religions -- it can be associated with violence
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