Last week I had the pleasure of heading
to Turks and Caicos (TCI) for work. Last weekend I was with my
family and when I told anyone that I was heading
from chilly Baltimore to TCI literally everyone started laughing
uproariously. Hard to argue with that logic. I flew from Baltimore
to Providenciales,
usually called Provo, and the distance between those two places in
December seemed a lot more than 3 hours of flight time.
TCI
certainly delivered, the entire time there I kept thinking that it
lived up to its up market brand. It all starts with the ocean, which
somehow is even more clear than the waters off the Bahamas. I didn't
even think that was possible. And to make the azure water even
better there is a reef right off Gracie Bay. The water is
complemented by impossibly fine white sand that is velvety to the
touch and goes for miles.
My
dad used the phrase peak experience to talk about travel moments that
become transcendent moments in your life. He wrote peak experience
in the context of returning back to Kenya 38 years after serving in
the Peace Corps -
http://livingthekoroldream.blogspot.com/2013_02_01_archive.html.
While
we have been traveling Mu and I co-opted the phrase.
I
had a peak experience while snorkeling in TCI in those perfect
waters. First I was enveloped in a school of brilliant blue and
yellow fish, at least a hundred, to more swimming lazily but keeping
their shape as a group. After moving on from that school of fish I
saw a turtle about the size of a coffee table book zooming around
near the reef. Nice!
The
turtle was so nice that I dove down to see it a bit closer and then
to my surprise the entire floor of the reef moved. Whoa, there is
another turtle here and it is seriously large! I had not noticed and
would have missed it entirely with the shell blending perfectly in to
the reef. The turtle was riveting, kind of hanging out on the ocean
floor and not doing much. The baby turtle kept heading out and then
coming back to momma. It was super cute and time kind of stopped.
Once
the big turtle decided it had enough of this weirdo at the surface
just watching, it headed towards deeper water. I followed the turtle
as it swam away, and it took a moment to register there was something
else on the ocean floor. Momma turtle swam over two black forms,
which it took me awhile to realize were sting rays. These two
organisms were the same as the turtle, one pretty large one and then
an enormous one. A baby and its mom just hanging out on the sandy
bottom. I would have NEVER noticed the Manta Rays without following
the turtle.
The
big ray was even more captivating than the turtles. It was seriously
large, probably about 10 feet across and with a stinger as tall as a
person. I have never seen any rays this size ever, nothing even
close. It was so large as to be a bit unnerving, and reinforced that
the water is a medium where people are out of place. How long has
this Ray been alive? How much does it weigh? Could it hurt me? It
could definitely hurt me, right?
Time
stood still again and I kept talking and laughing to myself into the
snorkeling gear. Amazed at this transcendent beauty just a few
minutes swim from the beach. Wow.
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