Our lengthy time in the Chilean capital has come to an end, and we have been so impressed with the quality of life, the beauty and the people. The 10 days in Santiago are the longest time that we have spent in a single place in the nearly 7 months we have been abroad, and having such a stable setting allows for the wonders of a place to reveal themselves more organically as opposed to the quicker pace of which we are so accustomed. Part of me thinks that this would have been a worthwhile, and hugely enjoyable way, alternative approach to living our dream. Getting a bunch of apartments for longer stays in fewer places and getting deeper into those spots. But, that is not how we drew it up and I won't be dwelling on that imagined counter factual.
It also helps that we had such wonderful hosts in the form of the overwhelmingly welcoming Aguirre family. They took us to so many jewels of restaurants, shows and neighborhoods, opened of their homes, and generally exposed us to many of the places that they love and make Santiago so lovely and livable. It is special to be taken in as family in such a fashion, a privilege that is incredibly rare.
For example, we had hoped to take the bus over the incredible scenic and rugged pass between Santiago and Mendoza, Argentina on Saturday. Nope. The pass was closed due to significant early season snowfall and did not open for a couple of days. No worries, more time in Santiago! Our apartment had to be vacated, and we were homeless. But only for a few hours, as Natalia and Paolo opened up their home and we had two wonderful, cozy and homey nights with them before the pass reopened and we were on our way.
One recurring thought I had about the city was how similar it is to LA. The weather felt like late fall in LA and both are right up against some really big mountains. Many people don't know it, but the mountains above LA are large, the peak that towers over my alma mater, Mt Baldy, tops out at 10,068 feet. All the more impressive when considering that is only 40 or so miles to the beach. The same topography is in action here in Chile, with the Andes in all their glory. Both cities sit right along one of the largest fault lines in the world and have had major earthquakes, and hence a built environment that has been made with that risk in mind. The mountains are jagged, the result of tectonic shifts instead of errosion. Both cities have lined their streams with concrete to manage their flood risk. Both cities have a thriving and growing art scene, and sports' passion.
A less pleasant side of the LA doppelgänger effect came from the smog that can be oppressive. Both cities are ringed by the mountains, and hence the emissions from cars just build and build and build. Both have bad to terrible traffic and hence lots of emissions. As an aside, the phrase used to describe traffic jams is 'taco'. Quieras un taco? No!
It took a few days for us to realize just how close the andes are to the city, as the smog obscured the jagged peaks from view. Our apartment was on the 16th floor of a building, up in the smog, and I regularly woke up with a fit of coughing, recalling the similar fits that would occasionally strike while I was in school. Something about sleeping in the smog sends my body into a little disequilibrium, and I can imagine that is going on throughout the city's respiratory systems.
Overall, I found Santiago incredibly compelling. The art scene is thriving, we went to half a dozen museums in the 10 days we were there. The food is delicious, good meats, fresh seafood from the cold waters off the coast and fresh fruit and veg. The wine is abundant, we went to a vineyard within the city limits that produces excellent wine, and the cervezas artesanale are interesting. The landscape is stunning, with big peaks lording over the city, and the climate pleasant. This city has such great access and quality of recreation, skiing and surfing and biking and hiking and mt biking. Great people. A thriving music scene. Not much else needed to make me a happy man, I am sure we will be back.
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